Albariño is the best known grape and wine of Galicia in Spain’s Atlantic north-west, and specifically of the Rías Baixas, the heavily indented coastline around Pontevedra. This comes from Viña Moraima, a tiny co-operative of just 13 growers producing around 4,000 cases a year, established in 2006 near Pontevedra. Most of the growers are small farmers with vineyards on the slopes of the Salnés Valley, and some of the vines, largely high trained on trellises in the traditional manner, are very old indeed. The nose has a hint of the sea, with zingy lemon freshness. There's stone fruit on the palate with floral hints. This makes a superb match to any seafood, but is an enticing aperitif too.